Mountain Range: Myogi
Peaks: Nakanodake
What really is Myogi?
Myogi-san is definitely one of Japan's most intriguing mountains. It is also one of the most difficult to define, as it is actually more of a range of jagged cliffs rather than just one mountain. The highest point and peak that is most commonly referred to as "the Mount Myogi", is in fact the Soma-dake peak of Mt. Hakuun. However, this section is attached to another mountain - Mt. Kondo, which consists of two prominent peaks: Nakanodake & Higashi-dake. Although there are even more mountains & peaks in the vast Myogi range (some are banned to climb), these twin mountains & three peaks make up the main Myogi-san hiking course.
The Myogi Mountain Range (source)
I successfully climbed Mt. Hakuun (Myogi) back in 2018 using the Taruwaki-zawa course, and once again in 2020 via the Okunoin expert chain course, which I did a second time in early October 2022. Having built up enough experience & confidence with the more popular of the twin mountains, I was ready to take a shot at the lesser climbed and more rugged Mt. Kondo.
The first expedition to Mt. Kondo - November 26, 2022
My first plan was to start at the highway entrance in between both mountains and cut my way up to the Bara ridge towards Mt. Kondo. I split a cab with another hiker I ran into at Matsuida station, and then arrived at the hidden highway trailhead at around 8 o'clock in the morning, and quickly moved up the first ridge. After about 90 minutes, I reached the expert path that connects to the Bara ridge. There was one main problem, about halfway up there was an extremely steep section with no chain or rope at all. Two young, lightweight hikers passed by me and crawled up the wall like spiders. However, I was not so confident I could make the same climb, and without any safety rope and since I was alone, I decided it was best to turn back to find another point of access. I continued onward on the Chukando (intermediate trail, highlighted above in orange) until I reached the Taihō-iwa (Cannon Rock), and found another potential access point.
I climbed the second "variation route" for over an hour until I was so incredibly close to the Higashi-dake summit and then hit another wall. This time there was a long rope going up an 80 degree wall. I tugged the rope and felt uncertain it could support my weight. Climbing up wasn't a problem, but I had no idea what challenges were above it, and in the case I had to turn back the same way, this would be quite a problem. Again, after a 30 minute internal debate, I made the decision to "play it safe" and turn back, despite knowing this was my last shot of the day to reach the summit. So make it so the day wasn't a total waste, I climbed the Cannon Rock and enjoyed a nice view of the area. There was a phrase inscribed there 「胎内くぐり」Tainai Kukugri - "Passing through the (mountain) womb" A name given to places where people pass through narrow crevices in mountains. The phrase stems from an ancient belief that mountains contain sacred doors or wombs to other spiritual worlds, and passing through them is a type of "spiritual rebirth". It was definitely an interesting concept.
After leaving Cannon rock, I continued on the standard trail and eventually passed by the "official" summit entrance on the far left side of the mountain. It seemed this was the best path to Mt. Kondo's summit, but I had unfortunately ran out of time for that day. At the bottom of the mountain I enjoyed a bowl of gyudon, and met with a friendly mother and her 8 year old, who had climbed part of the standard trail to get a view of the Cannon Rock. They were kind enough to give me a lift back to the station, which saved me time & money.
View From Cannon Rock
Back one week later for Nakanodake Summit - December 3, 2022
I really wanted to climb this mountain before the winter season hit this year, so one week later, the night after my company's year-end party, I took a train back to Takasaki station and stayed at a business hotel so I could be up bright and early, ready to challenge Mt. Kondo again. This time I booked a taxi from Shimonita station, which was a bit pricey (around 4000 yen), but my only guaranteed way to reach the shrine entrance before 8am, so I would have plenty of time to climb.
The weather was again sunny & clear , but just in the one week since being here, the temperature had dropped significantly, and I noticed patches of morning frost had formed along the trail. Within just one hour I had pushed my way up the standard trail until I reached the start of the expert course. There was a group of above 4 or 5 above me, all wearing helmets. I decided to wait until I reached the first chain section to put mine on, as it didn't seem too critical just yet. But the path was indeed quite steep, but nothing compared to the two variation routes I was on the week before. Within no time I was at the first chain section, which was relatively easy to the point where I probably didn't need even my harness. It was just past this section where I found my first technical challenge. A very small section of the path, that would have otherwise been easy had been layered with ice, it took a few calculated steps and pulls to move past. I quickly reached another clearing. Above me, was the final chain below Myogi's Nakanodake (中之岳) summit.
This chain section was divided into two fairly long sections, the higher section being the most difficult. There was one part where I had a hard time pushing myself upwards, but eventually got it. After about 8~9 minutes (I like to take my time on chain walls), I had finally reached the top and was treated to an amazing view of the Gunma landscape, and could see far off into the distance, including the snow capped mountains like Mt. Haruna, and even as far as Mt. Akadaké. I aimed to reach the second peak Higashidaké (東岳), but after a small traverse on the summit ridge, I found that the path which slopped downward next to a huge cliff drop was patched with ice. I decided that one peak was enough for the day, as I was still at the top of Mt. Kondo. I put some money beside the summit shrine (asides from good luck and prayers to make it down safely, it also goes towards maintaining the chains, so in a way, you really are paying for your safety)
I then made my way back down the chain sections, and slowly walked along the trail until I reached the highway. I found a shortcut through another forest which took me all the way back to the highway trailhead I had started at a week prior. From there I made a quick stop at the Myogi Art Museum and then the local hot spring to recharge. I then walked all the way to Matsuida station. It was a long train home, but I couldn't stay another day since I had to prepare for an important business meeting the following day.
On the train I met two ladies in their early 70s. They told me they had an easy day hiking Myogi trail, so I asked them which course they had climbed. They seemed well equipped and in good shape for their age, so I assumed they had climbed the intermediate course. Nope, those two ladies had climbed all 3 peaks - with all that ice too! Although they did it in a group with ropes and gear, it still goes to show age means nothing. One of them gave me a godiva chocolate as a kind gesture. "Good luck next time for that final peak!" I felt like a baby.
Now only one peak remains... the Higashi-Dake summit. The final challenge of Myogi.
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