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Myogi-san: The infamous "Rose Ridge" to the East Peak (Part 3)

Range: Myogi-san

Peaks: Soma-dake, Higashi-Dake, Nakanodake

Mountains: Mt. Hakuun, Mt. Kondo


I just can't seem to get enough of this mountain range.

Myogi-san is an amazing rocky mountain with incredible challenges and incredible scenery. In my opinion, it is one of the most truly unique mountains in Japan, and there are a couple reasons for this. I think one of the main reasons is, all in all, Myogi doesn't actually have that high of an elevation. It's highest peak stands at only 1104m, which is only about 10~15% higher than family friendly mountains like Mt. Mitake, Mt. Hinode, and Mt. Tsukuba. The mountain also offers some intermediate trails as well, which anyone of decent fitness level can do safely. Yet despite its low elevation, Myogi's hardest courses are on the same level (and higher) than some of Japan's toughest alps climbs, including Mt. Tsurugi - which brings me to Myogi-san's infamous the "Rose Ridge".


By the end of 2022, I had climbed 2 out of Myogi's 3 peaks, yet the East Peak still alluded me. This is because it is centred right in the middle of the "Rose Ridge" (Bara-Oné バラ尾根), an expert level course that STARTS from the Soma-Dake summit (meaning you have to climb the entire mountain before even beginning this dangerous course!). At a standard pace, from start to finish the whole course can take anywhere between 7~10 hours to complete, with at least 5 hours along Rose ridge. So, despite it being just a couple hours from Tokyo, this course requires thinking of Myogi-san not as a day hike, but as an Alps mountain, in both technical difficulty and time required to climb. I think this is what makes Myogi-san both unique and dangerous, making it a mountain not to underestimate.


Marukuyama and hiking friends in front of Myogi-san

I had come close to the third peak in December 2022, when I reached the Nakanodake summit. But, as it was winter, summit trail had quite a few patches of ice along the way, and I wasn't so confident climbing it alone. So, I waited until Spring 2023, where I joined with 2 other crazy Canadian climbers as well as 2 others that tagged along for the journey. In order to successfully & safely tackle this course, firm research of the course layout, expected time required, and planning for any potential obstacles is important. Also, the last time I climbed Soma-Dake, I got stuck behind "super family", which added a few extra hours to my journey. I did not bring enough water to last me those extra hours, and got dizzy on the way down. So, in addition to carrying 3L of water this time, I also drank about 1.5L at the parking lot, so I didn't need any water until after had already reached the Soma-Dake summit.



Twin peaks of Myogi-san's Mt Kondo Nakanodake and Higash-dake from Somadake Summit

Despite a slightly late start, the group moved pretty fast and we all reached the first peak at about 10:30am, about 30 minutes ahead of schedule - now it was time to start the real hike. Descending the Rose Ridge isn't too technical, but you really do have to watch your footing. Near the bottom there is a fairly long chain section, but nothing compared to what is to come. (So if this part is too difficult for you, you might really want to reconsider the rest of the hike). Of course, this deceptive trail makes it seem like the worst is behind you. For the next hour or so the rest of the trail is relatively flat with a couple little ups and downs. Eventually, we reached the Horikiri crossing. This is the last chance to bail out before the first of several big walls. About 30 minutes further down the trail, there is a small chain wall followed by a big ladder - and here is where the "Falconry "Chain (鷹戻し taka-modoshi) begins.



I screwed on an action camera to my helmet, but unfortunately it wasn't tight enough. Just as I started the big climb, the mini action camera detached and fell down the cliff. It was luckily caught by a twig at the very edge of the cliff - It was one of those slow motion feeling moments where inside my head I could just yell, "nooooooo!"


Thankfully Shane was still below and managed to pick it up off the twig. If it had fallen an inch further, that camera would've been lost forever. At this point we all just wanted to get to the top of the cliff as soon as possible, so I just kept it in my pocket. The view on the Falconry chain wall is quite thrilling, but it is no doubt a test of both physical and mental endurance. Just when you think you're finally done, there is a final horizontal section at the top. The last part is not difficult by any means, but you definitely don't want to slip here.



The ridge line trail continues up and down for a while longer, and eventually we hit the second big wall - the "Nidan Runze", which can best be translated to the "Two story chasm". Actually, I found this part to be much more difficult than the Falconry wall. At one point my left arm cramped up and almost let go of the chain. It was the first time I really had to rely on my harness as I had to give my left arm good a minute to relax. As the name implies, it is the TWO story chasm - descending the second part was also difficult, as it was more than 100 degree angle. I realized part of my balance problem was my heavy backpack, so I tossed it to the bottom of the chasm. Now that I had about 15kg less weight to carry, I was able to climb down the second section a bit easier.



After this point, there was still a few challenges that lay ahead, but the worst was over with. The next 15 minutes there was another chain that led up a very steep ledge, but the chain was more so for security than a necessity. Finally, we had reached the infamous and long sought after "East Peak". At that point as I sat down to take a photo of the peak, I think the group was so tired they all just quickly moved past the little sign, as they just really wanted the course to be over with. Fortunately from there it was only about 20 minutes until we reached the 3rd and final Nakaodake peak. We all took a final series of pictures before moving down the last steep chain section. Finally, our team made it back to the regular trail by around 5pm. We still had quite a distance back to the parking lot, so while sitting under a cherry blossom tree, we decided rather than walk along the roadside for a couple hours, it would be quicker to take a shortcut trail, although we were running out of sunlight. We ended up descending the last leg of the mountain in the dark, but only for about 15 minutes, and thankfully we had also prepared some flashlights/headlamps. We finally arrived at the nearby hot spring about 30 minutes before closing, had a quick refreshing dip, and headed on home.


So after many challenges, I had finally completed the full Myogi-san advanced course. It was a great feeling of accomplishment



Mt Myōgi Myogisan Myogi-san at night


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